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Annie on the road: cuckoo for cookie.

Fort Wayne, a city tucked between Amish country and Ohio in northeast Indiana, may not seem like a mouth-watering town, but every place has its treasures. Consider the hot potato wedges tossed in Old Bay seasoning and served with a side of thick tzatziki at Munchies. The best French toast I ever had came from, of all places, a cafeteria in a government building, where they used three fat slices of soft bread and sprinkled the whole beautiful plate with powdered sugar. I can’t count the number of times I ordered Breads & Spreads at Dash In: a plate of hummus, roasted red pepper dip, and herbed cream cheese served with toast points and pita triangles.

Not trashy enough for Midwestern food, you say? Try the stinky hot dogs at Coney Island (no real relation to the New York City beach), which are legendary dogs on squishy buns, topped with ripe diced onions, and doused with a thin cumin-laced beef chilli that soaks into the bread. I can name countless other favorites: the prime rib at Acme Bar, the tangy barbecue sauce glazing succulent ribs at Ziffles, the thin crisp fries dusted with a mysteriously alluring herb (thyme, maybe?) at Henry’s.

So I went back to Indiana to visit friends, I claimed, but in reality I think went back for this iced sugar cookie from The Cookie Cottage. I don’t know what’s in it, and I’m not sure I want to know because it might require the use of powerfully addictive substances currently illegal under multiple state and federal statues. The cookie itself is a perfect combination of crisp and tender. The icing, a thin soft layer spread neatly over the top, has a tangy rich flavor laced, surprisingly, with a slight salty kick. It’s an astonishing combination. I’m glad I left Fort Wayne, because resisting this cookie while trying to lose weight would require a force of willpower that could rip a hole in the fabric of the universe.

sugar cookie

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