My very first post two years ago featured mulberries. I had hoped to make Jeffrey Steingarten’s mulberry granita recipe last year to celebrate my first blogiversary, but a freak late spring frost scared all the budding mulberries off. This year the berries were a good two weeks late for my second blogiversary. Not very reliable, these mulberries. They would make terrible boyfriends and are bland besides—I prefer a little tartness to my berries and men. The lemon juice in this sorbet adds that missing acidity and enlivens the wonderful subtle flavor. It’s like giving that bland boyfriend a motorcycle, although he’d promptly crash that motorcycle because he’s not reliable, not to mention highly perishable and always staining your shirts.
One advantage of mulberries (not a true berry) over other berries is the soft seeds. They’re barely noticeable, although you can strain them out if you’d like. Personally, I like the soft crunch and the attractive way they speckle the dark purple sorbet. Unfortunately, the mulberry season is very short, so this recipe may come too late for many of you. You’ll just have to try again next year. Or the year after that. Or you can start a relationship with the strawberry, who always wears a helmet and promptly returns phone calls.
Makes about 1 quart
· 1 pound mulberries, about 4 cups
· 1/2 cup sugar
· 2/3 cup water
· 2 Tablespoons Chambord (optional)
· 2 Tablespoons fresh lemon juice
· Pinch salt
1) Puree the cleaned mulberries in a blender until smooth (I leave the green stems on). Add the sugar, water, Chambord, and lemon juice and blend until the sugar dissolves. (Blending the berries by themselves ensures that the stems and pulp break down completely.)
2) Chill the mixture overnight or place in freezer and stir every 15 minutes until very cold.
3) Freeze in ice cream maker. Depending on the model, sorbet may ride up the sides of your ice cream maker more than ice cream, so keep an eye on it and push the mixture down with a spoon if it tries to crawl out.